Monday, November 27, 2017

Last Minute Ear Warmer/Headband





CROCHET EAR WARMER/HEAD BAND
Perfect project for that last minute gift that works up quick!
My last minute gift to you! 




Materials Used:
10 ply/Worsted Weight approx 40 gm's/1.41 ounces
4mm/G Hook
Sewing needle and scissors


Stitches used: US terms
ch = chain
hdc = half double crochet
dc = double crochet
Special st's used:
V st = (dc, ch, 2 dc) in same stitch

To begin: chain 16
Row 1. work 1 hdc in 2nd ch from hook and in each chain across (15 hdc)
Rows 2 to 14, ch 1, work 1 hdc into each hdc to end, turn (15 hdc, 14 rows made)


Working on first braid using 5 st's only
when making the ch 1 at the beginning of each row, make it loose/high
(you can ch 1 and turn or turn and ch 1 your choice)

Row 15. ch 1, work 1 dc in 1st hdc, skip 1 hdc, work a V st in next hdc, skip 1 hdc, work 1 dc in next hdc, turn (1dc, 1V and 1dc)

please ensure you work your 1st dc into the top of the dc loops and not the chain 1.

Row 16 to 25. ch 1, work 1 dc into the 1st dc, work a V st into the chain 2 space of the V st, work 1 dc into the last dc of the row, turn
(you will have, 1 dc a V st and another dc)

Second braid:
Break off yarn and join to the 6th hdc of row 14 and repeat rows 15 to 25

Third braid:
Break off yarn and join to the 11th hdc of row 14 and repeat rows 15 to 25, break off yarn


Make 1 briad with your 3 length's.
Hold or pin your braids in place and make a row across the top of the 3 braids as per instructions in row 26 below.

Attach yarn
Row 26.
ch 1, *work 1 hdc into first dc, work 1 hdc into the 1st dc of the V st, work 1 hdc into the ch 2 space, work 1 hdc into each of the next 2 dc's*, repeat from *to* for the next 2 braids (15 hdc) ch 1 and turn



Row 27. ch 1, work 1 hdc in each st across, turn
for a small size work 7 more rows of row 27.
for a medium size work 9 more rows of row 27.
for a large size work 11 more rows of row 27.






To join, with the right side facing you, fold in half and line up the end stitches, join by either whip stitching, sl st loosely or sc across, using the stitches from the beginning chain row and the back loops only of the last row of hdc's made. Sew in all loose ends and wear.





 If you like this, you'll love this one too!
 

PUFF N STUFF HEAD BAND



Saturday, October 7, 2017

Cats Pop Over Tunic Crochet Top




"Cats Pop Over Tunic"


Sometimes a long sleeve shirt is just not warm enough to wear around the house or for a quick trip to the shops.
So I decided to make a simple throw over tunic style top. I had purchased some caron cakes in various tones and chose to use the bumbleberry style to make my top. I'm so glad I chose this yarn as it has a nice drape to it.

The level of difficulty in making this tunic can be overcome by either learning a new technique or using an alternative stitch, the pattern begins with a foundation row of double crochets, the alternative to this is to chain the amount of chains needed, then make a double crochet into each of those chains, the foundation row of dc's gives the Tunic a firmer starting edge, thus eliminating the need for a row of ribbing. The pattern also uses a standing double crochet at the beginning of the row. the alternative to this is a chain of 3. (see stitches used).
Size: AU 16, 18 and 20 adult instructions given, tunic can be made larger or smaller by adding or subtracting stitches at both edges of the tunic.

  
Materials needed: 
Caron cakes 200 gm balls x 3
Alternate yarn weight. US Worsted AU 10 ply
Crochet hook 5 mm (US H-8)

Stitches Used: US terminology
ch = chain
dc foundation = double crochet foundation row
(dc foundation row can be omitted with a row of chains then dc's made into that chain)
dc = double crochet
st dc = standing double crochet
(st dc can be omitted with a ch 3)
fpdc = front post double crochet
bpdc = back post double crochet

Special Stitches Instruction:
dbl clust = cluster, ch 2, cluster
A cluster is a group of half worked double crochets (usually 3) then all 3 are finished off together   


Cluster explanation: yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (3 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, ( 2 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (4 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops,  (3 loops on hook) yarn over hook, insert hook into stitch and pull up a loop, (5 loops on hook) yarn over and draw through 2 loops, (4 loops on hook) yarn over hook and draw through all 4 loops on hook = cluster made


The double clusters are purposely placed within the design for size alteration and a center split for the neck opening, at this point the double cluster is split into 2, which becomes a single cluster that travels along each side of the neck opening, it's subtle but nice.

When making clothing items, it is best to grab a piece of clothing, lay it on a flat surface, then put the garment you are making over it and check for correct sizing, most times near enough is going to be good enough as our garment will be loose, which in turn will allow us to wear extra clothing underneath. 

***If your not using the dc foundation row, ch 72, work your first dc into the 4th ch from your hook and make 1 dc into each of the chains (1 x ch 3 and 69 dc for a total count of 70 st's)
For those of you who are not going to use a standing dc at the beginning of the row, make a ch 3, then follow pattern***

Lets Begin:Make 2 pieces, 1 for the front and 1 for the back of the garment.
Make a dc foundation row of 70 dc

Row 1. st dc into first dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, skip 1 dc, work a double cluster into next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, skip 1 dc, work 1 double cluster into the next dc, skip 1 dc, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

**To simplify things, on every row, we work 1 dc into a dc and a double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster all the way up to the neck opening**

Row 2. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 22 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 22 dc's, turn

Row 3. st dc, work 1 dc into each of the next 21 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster (be careful not to work any st's into the actual cluster), work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the next 8 dc's, work 1 double cluster into the chain 2 space of the double cluster, work 1 dc into each of the remaining 23 dc's, turn

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for a total of 40 rows (includes foundation row), this is a generous length, I would have preferred mine a couple of rows shorter.

Divide for the neck opening:
Row 1. Continue pattern up to the center double cluster, work a cluster into the top of the cluster st, turn
Row 2. Ch 3, work a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue pattern to end of row, turn

Repeat the previous 2 rows 5 times (12 rows in total), break off yarn and continue to the other side of the neck opening.

Row 1. make a sl st into the top of the cluster st, chain 3 and make a 2 dc cluster in the cluster st, continue with pattern to end of row, turn

Row 2. continue pattern to center cluster and make a cluster in the top of the cluster st, turn

Continue pattern sequence for a total of 12 rows, both sides of neck opening are now completed.
Join each shoulder seam together, they can be sewed or crocheted together, your choice.


The tunic sides can be joined together now or you can add a decorative edge then sew or crochet that together.
Mark sides approx 3 to 5 rows down from the neck opening and sew or crochet sides together.

Making the side edge: working from the bottom edge and the sides of each row, make a sl st into the first rows edge and ch 3, make a dc into the same row, work 2 dc's in the side st of every row.
Second row of sides edge:
Chain 3 and turn, work a *fpdc around next dc, work a bpdc around next dc* repeat from *to* until 1 stitch is remaining and make a dc in that one.

You can now sl st your sides together or sew them together. Remember to end your side joining approx 3 (medium  size arms) to 5 (larger size arms) rows below the neck opening. 
You could also add buttons for closing the sides instead of sewing or crocheting them together. 


Now to tidy up the neck opening and make the neck edging:


Join yarn to a shoulder seam with a sl st and ch 3, as per the sides, work 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to one row before center of neck opening, work a 3 dc cluster stitch that begins in the row before the center, the second part of the cluster is worked into the ch 2 space of the double cluster and work the final st of the cluster in the row above the chain 2 space then finish off the cluster stitch (you just made a V in the center of the neck opening), continue working 2 dc around the stitch edge of each row until you come to the joining seam and work 1 dc into the seam, repeat for the other side of your tunic "including the V in the center of the neck opening. Sew in ends and now you can pop it on!






Free Pattern Courtesy Of Cathy Wood
2017.
You can sell your items made from this free crochet pattern
I’d love to see this pattern used for charity use
Please link back to this pattern if you use it
 
IF YOU LIKE THIS, YOU'LL LOVE THIS